What to do
The forest behind Coaster is criss-crossed with footpaths, including some which go through the abandoned village of old Ohoililir where the last rajah is buried (offerings are still made to him to atone for his unfortunate end). You may get lucky and see our local cous-cous (who used to exercise on the electricity cable behind the old Cottage), parakeets, the odd snake, lots of lizards and even more insects. Insect repellant strongly recommended.
More easy going are some of the variants on the two walks outlined below.
Walk 1 a - Should only be attempted towards low water/tide - sandals needed as there is some rock scrambling. Turn right (north) when you come down the Cottage steps, Go along the beach and follow the cliffs, after about 800 m you’ll reach the mouth of the ‘teluk’/lagoon.
This is a mini version of ‘The Beach’ in the film of that name and has interesting ecosystems – mangrove at one end and remnants of rain forest at the other. The narrow channel is an easy swim at dead water but there are strong currents as the tide rises/falls – best to head diagonally out to sea where the current is less and then arc back to the opposite shore.
Having crossed the channel turn right to explore the teluk or keep left across the little beach and beneath the cliffs for….
Walk 1 b – which involves a bit of rock scrambling and takes you across some little coves. There is reasonable snorkeling offshore. After about 1.5 km you’ll come to a larger cove, cross this and in the northernmost corner come off the beach and cross a narrow headland on an ill defined path to a much larger beach (Perek) which is usually completely deserted. There are snorkeling spots offshore, but don’t linger too long or the tide will cut you off on the return trip beneath the cliffs. Alternatively (and having remembered your water supplies)…. …..
Walk 1 c – go right along Perek beach and in the far northern corner there used to be a well defined path. This has now (2023) been replaced by a startlingly new and virtually unused road (except on Sundays). If you fancy a bit of rough, walk along it for about 500m then cut off to the left/north and down to the beach (there are a few vestigal paths which will ease your way through the forest). Alternatively, continue along the road for 3-4 km - both road and beach will lead you to Ohidertahun and Savannah Cottages where Lucy can usually provde a cold drink and arrange an ojek back to Coaster or, with a bit of notice, a boat to the cave paintings. Alternatively the battled hardened can return along the road/beach but that is a serious yomp.
Walk 2 a – turn left (south) along the beach outside the Cottages, past Ohoililir village until you get nearly to the end of the beach (about 2 km). Turn off the beach through the houses and then right along the Ngilngof – Langgur road and you will shortly come to Ngilngof Village – a substantial place with quite a good kios shop. If interested, make your way down to the beach (right as you come into the village) to see turtles awaiting the pot: offering to pay to liberate them isn’t really a disincentive to the locals catching them. They are overlooked by an imposing new church.
Back home along the beach or along the Ngilngof – Langgur road to the Ohoililir turn off. However, if you fancy something more strenuous….
Walk 2 b – continue through the village along the road south towards Debut and you’ll come to a bridge over a pretty creek. About 1.5 km up the hill from that there is a path to the right which leads down to the secret Ngilgnof teluk (lagoon). There is also a path to the left which leads though a nutmeg plantation to the island’s main reservoir. Great for freshwater fishing and tell us if you meet the crocodile (nobody has).
Continuing along the road you will ultimately (10 km) reach Debut, but you can turn back whenever you want. There are some pretty villages and views en route. There may even be a bemo back to Langgur but I‘ve never found it. However there is one from Debut.
Beyond Debut towards Evu are the stalactite caves of Goa Hawang and freshwater swimming in an underground pool. Evu has its own public swimming pool integrated in the island’s water supply and our only waterfall. Both are best covered by a bemo/ojek trip.
Goa Hawang 0r Hawang Caves
Kei cookery classes
Providing we haven’t got a lot of guests Ketty and her colleagues may be able to give a quick class in Kei cookery including buying veg, fish etc at the market. Ask Bob/Tutty for further info.